Break depends on the fiber structure and on the relation between the grain and other strata of the leather. A fine break, or a grain pattern which shows many fine wrinkles when it is bent to form a concave surface, as it is in the vamp of a shoe, reflects favorably upon appearance and serviceability. A coarse break, on the other hand, where a few coarse wrinkles are formed on bending the grain to form a concave surface may indicate that the grain layer is separating from the corium or main stratum as in pipey leather. Shoes made from fine-break leather are more attractive and tend to wear longer than shoes made from coarse-break leather. (See MIL-STD 663 and the ALCA Journal).⁴

1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the break pattern of shoe upper leather using an arbitrary break scale. This test method does not apply to wet blue.

1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.