Значение и использование

Upon agreement between purchaser and supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.

It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics, the ultimate consumer of apparel made from these fabrics may find the product acceptable, even if it does not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1 or Table 2. One or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 or Table 2, therefore, may be modified upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.

In such cases, any references to this specification must specify the following: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 6554 except for the following characteristic(s):” All exceptions must be noted.

Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Tables 1 and 2 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.

TABLE 1 Performance Requirements

CharacteristicsRequirementsSection Heavy WeightMedium WeightLight Weight Breaking Strength (Force), CRT:7.1 Warp801 N (180 lbf), min578 N (130 lbf), min356 N (80 lbf), min Filling312 N (70 lbf), min244 N (55 lbf), min178 N (40 lbf), min Elmendorf Tear Strength:7.2 Warp51 N (11.5 lbf), min35 N (8.0 lbf), min18 N (4.0 lbf), min Filling18 N (4.0 lbf), min15 N (3.5 lbf), min13 N (3.0 lbf), min Seam Slippage:7.3 (¼ -in. Separation)222 N+ (50 lbf +)133 N+ (30 lbf +)111 N+ (25 lbf +) Skewness: 7.4 3 × 1 Twill, only 8 % ± 3 %(wtl)^A 2 × 1 Twill, only 4.5 ± 3 %(wtl)^A Stretch (Warp Elongation) as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.5 Width as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.6 Weight as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.7 Dimensional Change, % Laundering 7.8 Preshrunk (each direction) 4.0 % max, Flammability Class I 7.9

^A WTL = with the twill line.

TABLE 2 Colorfastness Requirements

Non-Indigo DyedIndigo Dyed and Sulfur Black ColorsSection Colorfastness: Ozone, two cycles, shade change 7.10.1 Original (*A)Grade 4 minGrade 3.5 min After one laundry cycle (*A)Grade 4 minGrade 4 min Laundering: 7.10.2 Shade change (*A)Grade 3.5, minGrade 2, min Stain (*B)Grade 3, minGrade 2, min Light (*A) (20 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc):Grade 4, minGrade 4, min7.10.3 Crocking (*C): 7.10.4 DryGrade 4, minGrade 3, min WetGrade 1.5, minGrade 1.5, min Scale *A—AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change *B—AATCC Gray Scale for Staining *C—AATCC Chromatic Transference

Note—Class for color change or color transfer is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible to 1 for severe color change or color transfer. These properties may not be relevant if the denim will be garment wet processed. Other properties may be negotiable between customer and supplier.

Область применения

1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for 100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture of jeans, casual apparel, work clothing, and outerwear.

1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denim fabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.

1.3 This specification covers the performance of denim fabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.

1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.

1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and to determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.